Q: Can Italian cypress grow in Seattle with all of that rain? Do you know of suitable substitutes?
— A reader from Phoenix, Ariz.
A: I know Seattle doesn't seem droughty to someone from Arizona, but it doesn't rain here all the time; in fact, rain is pretty scarce from late June through September. And, yes, Italian or Mediterranean cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) grow in our climate, most happily and largest in warmer micro-climates near the water. These tall, skinny, punctuation-point trees are hardy to zone 8, and do best in well-draining soil and plenty of sun.
Q: We have a corner hillside in our neighborhood (the entry of the Picnic Point Estates in Edmonds) that is covered with ivy and horsetails. The property is owned by the homeowners association. They want to use the method of laying down newspaper and covering it with compost this fall and over the winter to try and kill the ivy and horsetail.
Is this worth trying? I'm very doubtful about what it's going to look like over the winter. This is a very steep hillside in a neighborhood of million-dollar homes. I say let's live with the ivy and horsetails and plant something that will co-exist with the weeds. What is your opinion?
A: I think the problem is more the stability of the steep hillside than how it will look over the winter. While killing all the ivy and horsetail sounds like a good goal, denuding a steep slope of vegetation that helps hold it in place can cause destabilization, sloughing off and even slides.
Also, the no-dig newspaper method you suggest probably won't work on a steep slope, because it relies on layers of newspaper and mulch that need to stay put for months. And choosing the correct plants, re-planting such a slope, and keeping the plants alive until they can take hold is a difficult and demanding job.
Certainly the homeowners association should consult with the city of Edmonds before undertaking such a project. They should probably also consult a soils expert, or at least a landscaper that is expert in dealing with slopes, to make sure they aren't creating a greater problem than already exists.
To find a professional, consult the free Washington State Nursery and Landscape Association 2006 Locator Guide. Contact the WSNLA for a copy at 800-672-7711, or Breanne@wsnla.org.
Q: I have several orange sedge plants both in my garden and in pots. As much as I enjoy them, I haven't yet figured out how to care for them properly. Mine seem to do well for their first season, but then begin to develop dried leaves that detract from the wonderful orange-green color of the plants.
I found out through trial and error that cutting the plant all of the way back isn't the most efficient option. I have also tried to "comb" out the old leaves with my fingers, but ended up with more "paper cuts" than good looking plants. I would love to hear any suggestions you might have.
A: The little evergreen sedges like the orange one you grow (Carex testacea is the orange New Zealand sedge) are sturdy, handsome plants grown for their foliage effect. There's a misconception that sedges tend to be drought-tolerant, but in fact most need at least moderate water to do their best.
Yearly combing out of the dead blades helps their appearance, but be sure to use a fork or tined tool for the job rather than your hands, because as you point out, the foliage can have sharp edges. Evergreen or semi-evergreen sedges such as C. testacea should be cut back in late spring if they have much die-back.
Don't cut them back before March. Sometimes, even when chopped back at just the right time of year, they resent such treatment and die. Grow them for a few years while they look good, then pull them for the compost heap and start again. These little beauties are worth it because they don't need dividing, don't take up much room and keep their good looks year-round. |
